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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.